Travel

Charming Chester

967F8740-5A6D-4B5B-BF5A-8C32E55AA205The 1824 built Airbnb house pictured above (with Murray and the girls in the foreground setting out for a day exploring), is where we stayed in Chester, Vermont. Such a classic American beauty! I’ve always wanted to stay in a grand house like this (and yes, we had it all to ourselves). One of the highlights of the house was playing hide and seek with the kids.  The house had a basement (very foreign to us in Australia), and two separate attics accessed through trapdoors and hidden staircases. Something I’ve only ever read about in Famous Five novels!

Airbnb is often a good option for our larger family, being more affordable than the two motel or hotel rooms we usually need. This was definitely the case when we were travelling in Europe, but not so much in the States as their rules allowed for us all to bunk down in the one cheap motel room (usually including breakfast). The rooms usually had two double beds and a pull out sofa bed for us all to share. We just got away with this due to the ages of our children at the time, but as they grow older, it won’t be quite as feasible. Another great thing about Airbnb is that apart from the space to spread out, and the chance to cook for yourself, it enables you to experience living like a local.

By the time we got to Chester we were a little road weary after covering some big distances in a relatively short period of time. We made the decision to park up the car and spend the day relaxing by watching a movie at the house and by exploring the cute little town of Chester on foot. There was some amazing architecture (as pictured above) to gawk at. Walking downtown from our house was a lot of fun, however our outing coincided with torrential rain. In spite of that, we were undeterred and walked about for half a day becoming completely drenched. Water was sloshing out of our shoes with every step! I’m sure the locals thought we were kind of mad and the shopkeepers probably didn’t appreciate the little puddles we left on their floors. It took several days to dry out all our shoes afterwards and I did have a niggling thought that maybe I was an irresponsible parent when my seven year old was splashed by a passing truck and fell over in a huge puddle as we were running along the pavement! Nevertheless we continued!

We found a great little “made from scratch” restaurant downtown and had a lovely lunch. The owner was kind enough to gift us with some jars of produce made by local farmers that we were able to bring home as souvenirs. There was a huge antique mall (with very reasonable prices) to browse through, as well as a pie shop where we bought a huge apple pie to eat after dinner at our Airbnb house. I’d been dying to try one of the pies the Americans are famous for and it didn’t disappoint!

There’s an interesting graveyard to poke around right in the centre of town, with some graves from the civil war and a public tomb built in 1850. This was for use when the ground was frozen solid in winter, and you had to wait for the big thaw to be buried!

5805DF4C-2281-4B8C-B7D3-81310C30827F It was nice to take a break from driving long distances, even if just for the day. All too soon we were back on the road again, heading this time for Maine. Before we left Vermont we made a quick pit stop at a nearby village for a maple creemee – a delicious soft serve ice cream made with locally farmed maple syrup. It was totally delectable and is something the kids still speak reverently about or try to recreate by mixing up maple syrup with their ice cream!

Do you have any fond food travel memories? Do you prefer Airbnb or hotels/motels when you travel?

Travel

Niagara Falls

B3E5B747-B158-42ED-B515-98F78E0A4B79 This amazing natural phenomenon was not high on our list of must sees, but since it is so famous and we were going right past we included it on our itinerary. The falls are incredible and very beautiful, but equally as amazing is the fact that huge high-rise buildings are built almost literally around the edges of the falls. Most of our waterfalls in Australia are tucked away in remote and reasonably inaccessible national parks, so to visit here with all its urban infrastructure was quite eye-opening. We chose to stay on the Canadian side as the views of the falls are better and it was fun to visit another country, even if for only one day!

95AEFFBA-1AA9-40F7-B736-2B4EA4653A46 This is the breathtaking view from our hotel, which we booked solely for the views. The reviews of all the affordable hotels with fall views were disappointing, mainly due to being constantly crowded with huge queues for the elevators and the included breakfast. This was certainly our experience, but it was a small price to pay for the luxury of being able to see the falls from your bed! They are spectacularly lit up with fireworks every night at 10pm throughout the summer.

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An enjoyable way to experience the falls is to take a boat cruise to the rapids just below the falls on the Maid of the Mist. This departs from the American side, so you have to have your passport handy to cross the Rainbow Bridge from Ontario into the state of New York. The boat cruise is particularly enjoyable for children, as you get so close to the falls you would be soaking wet if it wasn’t for the provided poncho.

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The twin cities of Niagara Falls are not particularly attractive and have that rundown, shabby feel that seems to afflict most border towns. It is also a commercial, touristy area lacking in soul and authenticity. Having said that, we were certainly happy to have visited and engaged in our own spot of commercialism by spending a couple of hours shopping at one of the outlet malls. These malls are one of the joys of travelling in the US – you can purchase designer items at a fraction of the original price. Another joy was visiting IHOP (International House of Pancakes) and allowing our resident pancake lover the delight of eating a huge stack of pancakes for dinner!

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Travel

Mackinac Island

 It’s unanimous! The whole family agreed that visiting this island in Lake Huron, Michigan (which is so big, it’s like an inland sea), was the highlight of our trip. I was inspired to visit here by reading a post on Mackinac Island by Kelle Hampton.  Kelle visits on a family holiday each year and takes the most amazing photos. Well, what was so good about it? I think it was the combination of natural and manmade beauty, coupled with a great sense of freedom to ride with the wind in your hair without being troubled by a single car. Cars are outlawed on the island (and have been since 1898), so all transport (even of goods) is by bicycle or horse and cart.

There is an eight mile circuit road around the island which is incredibly fun to cycle. The weather was quite overcast and rainy on the days we visited, but even this did nothing to dampen our enjoyment. The girls and I completed two circuits, we loved it so much! There are also very intriguing roads going off through the heavily wooded interior of the island. The boys went off exploring here on a mission to find the skull cave in the afternoon. There is nothing quite like the freedom of riding a bike with the wind in your hair (something we’ve largely lost in Australia due to our draconian bicycle helmet laws). Heck, you don’t even need to wear a helmet to ride a motorcycle in the US!

The manmade beauty comes from the well laid out streets with some incredibly cutesy houses. Some of them are hotels and probably the most imposing of them all is the aptly named Grand Hotel, where we booked lunch as a package with our ferry tickets from Mackinaw City. Lunching at the Grand Hotel with its lavish interiors and sumptuous setting was well worth the price tag. We felt like we were in a Gatsbyish inspired movie. Even the kids were in awe of their surroundings and the food was fabulous! In case you were wondering, Conde Nast Traveler “Gold Lists” the hotel as one of the “Best Places to Stay in the Whole World”.

But wait there’s more! Being lovers of history, and war history in particular, the boys were excited to discover that there was not one, but two forts to visit after lunch, where you could even see cannon and rifle firings. Mackinac island was very strategically located for the North American fur trade and the British and Americans battled over it many times. The girls and I spurned the chance to visit the forts (much to the boys disgust), and went shopping instead in the very enticing little boutiques. Fudge is a big thing here, and I must say it was delicious!

I really wanted to stay in one of the old hotels on the island, but this proved too expensive or not practical for our family size. Instead we booked the very reasonably priced and centrally located Bicycle Inn and were glad we did. We had two nights on the island and were sad to leave this idyllic place to get back on the road again, however Niagara Falls was calling!

 

Travel

More Laura Ingalls Wilder Goodness . . .

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I’m sure Laura wasn’t really ruining my tolerant husband’s life, nevertheless it was a good joke when we found this book in our travels. Our next major destination after Rapid City was Mackinac Island in Michigan. It’s a long way between these two points, but low and behold, when I used a ruler to find the midway point between the two it landed on Pepin (which just happens to be the birthplace of Laura Ingalls Wilder). I was so excited! I planned an overnight stay in Stockholm, a little village close to Pepin in Wisconsin. I prebooked all the accommodation for this trip as it can be hard to accommodate six people travelling together in peak season. 

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The beautiful Spring Street Inn where we stayed for the night was the only place on our whole prebooked trip that didn’t require credit card confirmation. I emailed the owner (with the very intriguing address of sippi river drifter), who replied that I was in the book for 19 July and just to turn up. When we did turn up around 9pm, the inn keeper was sitting outside having a jam session on the ukulele, playing our favourite tunes! It created a very welcoming and attractive atmosphere.

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Harbor View Cafe

Our Lonely Planet guide alerted us to the fact that there was a great slow food cafe (hard to find in the US), on the shores of Lake Pepin. Sometimes we dwardle a little (well, a lot really), in our travels from A to B, but once I told my husband about the restaurant he was very focused on getting us to Pepin on time for dinner! It was a big day, given we had 627 miles or 1,010 kilometres to cover. I’m happy to report we made it and dinner was sensational! Once again they were interested to see Aussies off the beaten track and the restaurant owner and chef were very interested to read the write up in the Lonely Planet about their establishment.

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Lake Pepin

We had very little time in this area (Stockholm had some beautiful little shops which sadly were closed by the time we arrived and not yet open by the time we left), but I’ve put it on my list to revisit should we ever return to this neck of the woods. The Mississippi River (which we followed and crossed over a lot of the way here) was misty and mysterious with tangled vines and overhanging vegetation covering much of its banks. It stirred some early memories of watching Huckleberry Finn at the drive-in as a child and made me really want to return to explore more, as well as to read Huckleberry Finn for the first time. The village had free bikes to borrow, which were fun for an early morning ride to poke around a bit.

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Free book library near our accommodation

Before we hit the road again we stopped at the Little House Wayside where you can visit a replica of the house described in Little House in the Big Woods. The house is located on the plot where Laura Ingalls Wilder was born in 1867 and is now surrounded by farmland, but was a dense hardwood forest when Laura was born. There is enough natural vegetation left to imagine just what it would have been like back in 1867. It was amazing to stand on the very spot described in the books and also to see Lake Pepin which is referred to often. I felt very blessed to be here and to visualise the places that had lived in my imagination as a child.

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Travel

Close Encounters in the Wild West

 

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Devils Tower in Wyoming

In preparation for our trip my husband, Murray, watched Close Encounters of the Third Kind with the kids. This is one of his favourite movies, so he and the kids were excited to see Devils Tower which is featured in the film. I’m not a lover of science fiction, so I couldn’t bring myself to watch the movie, but nevertheless I enjoyed visiting this iconic landmark and doing the walk around the base.

After visiting here we headed off for lunch in Deadwood, South Dakota which Murray (quoting Ben Kenobi), described as a “wretched hive of scum and villainy”.

Deadwood (such an awesome name), was settled illegally in 1876 by gold miners and is a real Wild West town. Gold of a different kind powers the town today (there are at least 80 casinos here, including one owned by Kevin Costner). Whether you like gambling or not, it has paid for the restoration of the gold rush era buildings on Deadwood’s well preserved streets. It’s a fun place to wander around and every day during summer actors reenact shootouts on Main Street (pictured above), which are very atmospheric and entertaining to watch.

Adding to the overall lawlessness of the place is the fact that both Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok are buried here in the Mt Moriah Cemetery. Just a few weeks after arriving in Deadwood, Wild Bill was gunned down while holding a poker hand of aces and eights, forever after known as the Dead Man’s Hand. The cemetery is built on a very steep hillside and is a fascinating place to visit.

The next day before leaving South Dakota for our journey east, we made a visit to a Minuteman Missile (this was a weapon in the American nuclear arsenal). For thirty years one thousand missiles were kept on constant alert during the Cold War. They were “hidden” in plain sight on the Great Plains.

And this last picture below is just a piece of travelling trivia! This pram contains two dogs who visited all the tourist sights with their owners and even came to breakfast in our motel kitted out in the pram! Have you seen any curious sights such as this in your travels!?


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Travel

Mount Rushmore

C37BFCC9-6139-48C1-B6A6-D614311EDC5CIt was a dream come true to visit Mount Rushmore and it did not disappoint. I was amazed by the scale of it and the likeness to the four presidents (George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln). The Americans have a real reverence for their past presidents that is both touching and quite foreign to us as Australians.  I was also inspired by the vision and nerve to take on a project like this and succeed.

5221A5AA-4CDE-43B5-97F4-BB850F416670 We also visited the Crazy Horse Memorial, which is still a work in progress and when finished will depict the Sioux leader on his horse pointing to the horizon saying “My lands are where my dead lay buried”.  The memorial is a moving tribute to the Native Americans’ dreams and plans for their land and their country prior to colonisation. Dreams which now will be difficult to realise.

We spent the rest of the day touring around the Black Hills. There’s heaps to see here and we really only just scraped the surface. Lots of Americans holiday in this area, so there are lots of activities for families. We had time to go zip lining which was too terrifying for some, but lots of fun for others!

8C23D5ED-9EF6-4AF1-AABC-CF3907E6AC3DAs we were driving through the Black Hills a very loud flash flood warning sounded on all of our devices simultaneously and was repeated at five minute intervals. It was so loud it sounded like it was coming from a loudspeaker! This was very alarming as we had no idea how we should react to the warning. Should we stop the car or keep driving and where would we go? Not knowing what else to do we kept driving, except when the hail became so heavy we had to pull over!

CF7A60F1-DFA0-4918-B03A-10D3EC95392EThe hail was so heavy and fell so fast that it looked like snow lying around everywhere. We were very glad we didn’t wash away in our car and managed to get back to our base in Rapid City safely!

Rapid City is a fun place to hang out, with a bit of a cafe culture (something we didn’t encounter much of in our travels) and a great place to walk around and do some shopping. It also has lifelike statues of most of the American presidents dotted throughout the city, which was fun for the kids.  Although not really alike, it was the city most similar to our home town, meaning we felt really comfortable here.

I’m taking a break for the next few weeks for school holidays, but will be back to finish off this epic road trip soon! Have a very happy Easter x

Travel

Badlands and Bad Motels

243CD3B8-4226-4C40-A23E-DB68508FAFA4After leaving Kansas City we headed northwest en route to Mount Rushmore. When my husband and I compiled our “must see” lists before deciding on our itinerary for the trip, Mount Rushmore came out on top.

We made an overnight stop on our way to Rapid City, South Dakota (our base for visiting Mt Rushmore). It was here that we encountered our only negative accomodation experience of the trip (which was all prebooked, due to there being six of us travelling in peak season). Suffice to say, I stayed awake a lot of the night trying not to touch the doona cover when I rolled over or to think about the grime encrusted, once waterlogged carpet, all the hair in the bathroom and the chicken nuggets mashed into the air conditioner!

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The Corn Palace in Mitchell

There’s a few unusual attractions out in the middle of America which puzzled me when reading up on the area before leaving for the trip. Really, what is a corn palace and what on earth could be something called Wall Drug?

Turns out the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota is really fascinating. 300,000 ears of corn are used each year to create the murals on the outside of the building pictured above. It all began in the late nineteenth century when several cities on the Great Plains constructed crop or grain palaces to promote themselves and their products. The original corn palace in Mitchell was built in 1892 and the one you see today was rebuilt in 1921. It’s currently used as a multi purpose space hosting exhibits, proms, stage shows and basketball games.

Just as we were leaving Mitchell for Rapid City, I looked down and discovered my engagement ring wasn’t on my finger! We immediately turned the car around and I started praying I would find it. I certainly didn’t want to travel halfway around the world, only to leave a very significant item of my personal history in the Corn Palace in Mitchell! God gave me a real peace I would find it. I felt led back to the bathroom where I upended the unemptied paper towel bin to find my ring at the bottom. Half a million people visit here each year and it was well over an hour since I had been in the bathroom. God is so good!

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My engagement ring safely united with the others, back on the road!

The next place of interest along our route was the Badlands National Park. We didn’t have enough time to stop here, so just took the detour off the highway on the Badlands Loop Road. It’s a really interesting, alien looking landscape which could be the set of a Western movie. We were hoping to see some of the bison that roam the park, but they proved elusive on the day we were visiting.

The very cute and humorous prairie dogs were a big hit with the kids. They can be seen in abundance and there are even places where you can stop and feed them peanuts.

EF58530B-387E-46D6-8CD5-499E58319299Our last stop for the day was Wall Drug. When I first heard the name, I was really puzzled.  What was this place – somewhere you could see drugs stashed in a wall, as some kind of peculiar and offbeat tourist attraction? It turns out that Wall is the name of the town and Drug is short for drug store (what we would call a chemist in Australia). Who would have known? Anyway, Wall Drug came well recommended by the guide books and did not disappoint. It was actually one of my husband’s favourite places on the whole trip. It’s a bizarre collection of outlandish and somewhat tacky, larger than life entertainment as well as a large shopping mall with a western theme. Somehow, it all works to create an enjoyable and fascinating experience. It’s also a good place to buy cowboy boots and other souvenirs.

The story behind Wall Drug is really interesting. It was established in 1931 by a young couple who struggled to get enough business, until they thought of offering free iced water to travellers on their way to the newly opened Mount Rushmore monument. Their business took off from there and is still in the same family today. You can still get free iced water and the coffee is only 5 cents. Billboards advertising Wall Drug have become a bit of an attraction in themselves, as they stretch for at least 1,000 kilometres along the highway leading up to Wall.  They can even be found throughout the world, announcing the miles to Wall Drug from famous locations.

Have you come across any unusual tourist attractions in your travels?

Travel

Pandas and Prairie Houses . . .

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Rend Collective in concert in Kansas City

During some of our long days driving around America, my husband Murray and I got to thinking of some of the bands we liked who could be playing in the States while we were there.  So, after googling a couple of possibilities, we looked up Rend Collective (my favourite band) and discovered they were playing at the right place on the right day! It just took a few little tweaks to our itinerary,(happily, booking.com reservations can be cancelled with a refund with 24 hours notice) and an early start out of Memphis to be in Kansas City that night for the concert. So exciting!!

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Laura and Almanzo’s farmhouse

Rocky Ridge Farm in Mansfield, Missouri (the home of Laura Ingalls Wilder from 1896 until her death in 1957), was already on the itinerary, as the Little House Series were amongst my most favourite books growing up. It was convenient for a lunch stop on our journey as it is located about midway between Memphis and Kansas City. There is a museum here and you can tour the two houses on the farm. It is a very special place to visit as the farmhouse was built a little at a time by Laura and her husband Almanzo and it was here that she wrote her famous books, beginning with Little House in the Big Woods. The next book, Little House on the Prairie is probably the best known as there was a television series made of the same name. In the farmhouse and the museum you can see Pa’s fiddle, Laura’s writing desk, original letters, Laura and Mary’s slates, Nellie’s stationary calling card, their quilts and many more personal items. It was a dream come true for me to visit here! Reading the books in my own farmhouse growing up, I never imagined I would have the privilege to do this. It was quite an emotional experience for me to be here and experience it all.

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The Rock House built for the Wilders by their daughter

After a simple, but lovely picnic lunch from Laura’s Lunch Pail we hit the road again. We arrived in Kansas City just in time for the concert. Rend Collective were amazing to watch – so much stage energy! What a blessed day – living out my childhood dreams and seeing my favourite band in concert. The locals were surprised to see Aussies floating around – they said they don’t see too many tourists in Kansas City!

1BA30A1D-9230-4BE5-946D-11FB70A275C1Since arriving back home my kids have been inspired to read Laura Ingalls Wilder’s books. Did you grow up reading the Little House books? Who was your favourite character?

Travel

Marvellous Memphis

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Famous Beale Street

I’m back to finish off blogging about the second half of the  Great James-Wallace American Road Trip of 2018! The next stop after New Orleans was Memphis – from one gritty city to another.  When I was researching the trip, I was intrigued to read the Lonely Planet’s description: “Memphis has a certain baroque, ruined quality that’s both sad and beguiling.” Memphis was also one of the few places on our itinerary where the Airbnb reviews emphasised the importance of being in the “right” neighbourhood for safety reasons. It was thus with both excitement and trepidation that we embarked on our visit here.

We only had one day in Memphis, so to maximise our time we left our car parked at our Airbnb and ubered around the city for the day. This was a great option as it left us free to enjoy the sights without worrying about traffic, directions and where to park the car. We stayed in a fabulous Airbnb in Memphis (pictured below), which really gave us a feel of what it is like to be a resident of Memphis. The houses have no dividing fences and people were all out and about on the streets, so the neighbourhood had a lot of life to it.

We started our day with a visit to the National Civil Rights Museum, which is across the street from the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King Jr was assassinated on April 4 1968. This was easily the most moving experience from our American trip. Both my husband and I spent most of our time in the museum fighting back tears. The exterior of the Lorraine Motel and the room King was staying in at the time he was shot are much the same as they were at the time of his assasination. The statue of Rosa Parks on the bus and a preserved copy of a tourist guide for African Americans showing them where they were free to stay, eat and shop under the segregation rules were also very moving.  It was great for us to be able to explain this history to our kids and for them to gain an understanding of racial discrimination.

After our time in the museum we headed to Central BBQ, a Memphis institution for lunch. You have to queue for a table here, but it was well worth the wait, as the food was amazing. The pulled pork, sauces and iced tea were particularly memorable. The boys loved the ribs!

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After lunch it was onwards to Graceland. I wouldn’t call myself a die hard Elvis fan, nevertheless it was interesting to take the tour and to understand a bit more of what made Elvis tick. It was also a good opportunity to explain another part of history to the kids. Elvis’ house, although lavishly decorated, was quite humble, particularly in comparison with those of the stars of today. Elvis’ grave is also here.

After leaving Graceland we headed back into town to the Peabody Hotel to see the famous ducks who live in the hotel and swim in the lobby fountain. This is a 1930’s tradition which draws a big crowd! Every day at 11am the ducks descend the elevator to the fountain and make the reverse trip at 5pm that same day accompanied by their duckmaster. It was hard to get a good photo, but you can see some of the ducks to the right of the fountain below and the back of the red coated duckmaster. It was like something out of a fairy tale!

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What a day! It was very intense, but very enjoyable. Memphis is certainly a very real city with soul. We finished off with a stroll along Beale Street and some ice cream sodas in a beautifully old fashioned store. After that it was back to our Airbnb for dinner and an early night ahead of an early start into Laura Ingalls Wilder territory!

DIY

It’s the little things . . .

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Just sharing a couple of quick projects from the last few weeks on the blog today. It really is the little things that can make an ordinary day special and lift the day to day mundaneness of some of our routines.

My daughter recently embarked on a 1,108 kilometre trip north to compete in a swimming competition. My husband travelled with her, but I wanted to do something special to let her know I would be thinking of her too. When I discovered the free swimmer printable, I knew it would be just the thing! She awoke to the glass of juice (a special treat in our house) pictured above for breakfast before leaving. She loved it!

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The second project comes from another free printable which I filled with gummy bears and left on my kids breakfast plates on Valentines Day. ❤️ Both the projects come from one of my favourite sites, Oh Happy Day! The link for the swimming straws is here and the Valentine’s Day project here.

Do you like doing special little projects to make ordinary days special?