Travel

New York, New York

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Well, here we are on the final stop of our trip! The country bumpkins made it all the way from Geraldton to the Big Apple (although apparently New Yorkers never call it this). The City That Never Sleeps is a more apt description, as there is just so much going on here. It was a real buzz to be in such an iconic city and exhilarating to be caught up in the frenzy and excitement of such a huge concrete jungle just for a little while.

What to do while we were there? So much to see, so little time. This was the first visit for all of us, so we started with the obvious choices and figured we’d be back one day to experience some of the less touristy attractions.

As soon as we arrived, we headed to Times Square to soak up the atmosphere. This was every bit as scintillating and overwhelming as you might expect.

The next day we headed off on a tour to see The Statue of Liberty and the Immigration Museum. The museum was really fascinating, as it’s situated in the original building where immigrants were processed on their arrival into America. You can really feel the history in the walls! It’s a fascinating insight into the decisions of the past that have made America such a populous nation. America had a totally open immigration policy throughout much of it’s early history.

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The kids especially enjoyed visiting the Statue and climbing up to the top of the Pedestal. They were disappointed they couldn’t go up into the crown, but you need to reserve tickets six months in advance for this experience.

After our morning tour, we made our way past the New York Stock Exchange (with a quick history lesson for the kids), and then onto the 9/11 Memorial and Museum. This was a very moving experience (I spent most of my time here fighting back tears). Some of the exhibits were quite confronting for the kids, but we felt it was important for them to know the truth about what happened.

Our next day started with eating giant pretzels and a visit to Central Park. This is a beautiful, relaxing oasis amidst the concrete jungle. It was nice to take some time out here to lay around on the grass, but if you ever visit DON’T feed the squirrels! Unfortunately Portia was bitten badly on the hand by one as she tried to feed it a peanut. It latched onto her finger and was hard to shake off.

Lots of blood later, a quick visit to the chemist and some googling to ensure squirrels don’t carry rabies, and we were off to watch a baseball game at Yankee Stadium. We caught the subway to the Bronx for this (an experience I found totally baffling, as all the stations are numbered rather than named). You also need to know if you want to go uptown or downtown and whether to take a local or an express train. There are lots of potential errors waiting to be made! Happily, Murray had it all under control.

It was a fun experience to watch the Yankees play the Baltimore Orioles and to soak up a bit of the culture of the game.

Our last day was spent visiting the Central Park Zoo (we have some animal lovers in our family) and also the Brooklyn Bridge. We treated ourselves to dinner at a rooftop bar for our last night and then we were off to see Aladdin on Broadway in a beautiful old theatre. We all really enjoyed the show.

Our homeward bound plane was leaving that same night at 1am. As we exited the theatre the heavens opened with a huge summer thunderstorm (the east coast of the USA gets a heap of summer rain). As we had a plane to catch, we had no choice, but to run the few kilometres back to our hotel in the torrential rain, with water squelching out of our shoes at every step. We looked like drowned rats when the doorman let us back into the hotel! We just had time for a quick shower, before being whisked off through the night to the airport with extra hand luggage bags of soaked clothes and shoes. I don’t think any of us will ever forget the experience!

And so ends my recount of our epic American road trip adventure. We loved it all (apart maybe from the squirrel bite), and can’t wait to return one day to road trip around the western side. I’ll leave you with one last photo of Reuben making himself at home on the trip, as only he knows how!

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I’m taking a break for school holidays, but will return with some more kids’ party posts soon!

 

Travel

Close Encounters in the Wild West

 

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Devils Tower in Wyoming

In preparation for our trip my husband, Murray, watched Close Encounters of the Third Kind with the kids. This is one of his favourite movies, so he and the kids were excited to see Devils Tower which is featured in the film. I’m not a lover of science fiction, so I couldn’t bring myself to watch the movie, but nevertheless I enjoyed visiting this iconic landmark and doing the walk around the base.

After visiting here we headed off for lunch in Deadwood, South Dakota which Murray (quoting Ben Kenobi), described as a “wretched hive of scum and villainy”.

Deadwood (such an awesome name), was settled illegally in 1876 by gold miners and is a real Wild West town. Gold of a different kind powers the town today (there are at least 80 casinos here, including one owned by Kevin Costner). Whether you like gambling or not, it has paid for the restoration of the gold rush era buildings on Deadwood’s well preserved streets. It’s a fun place to wander around and every day during summer actors reenact shootouts on Main Street (pictured above), which are very atmospheric and entertaining to watch.

Adding to the overall lawlessness of the place is the fact that both Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok are buried here in the Mt Moriah Cemetery. Just a few weeks after arriving in Deadwood, Wild Bill was gunned down while holding a poker hand of aces and eights, forever after known as the Dead Man’s Hand. The cemetery is built on a very steep hillside and is a fascinating place to visit.

The next day before leaving South Dakota for our journey east, we made a visit to a Minuteman Missile (this was a weapon in the American nuclear arsenal). For thirty years one thousand missiles were kept on constant alert during the Cold War. They were “hidden” in plain sight on the Great Plains.

And this last picture below is just a piece of travelling trivia! This pram contains two dogs who visited all the tourist sights with their owners and even came to breakfast in our motel kitted out in the pram! Have you seen any curious sights such as this in your travels!?


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Travel

Mount Rushmore

C37BFCC9-6139-48C1-B6A6-D614311EDC5CIt was a dream come true to visit Mount Rushmore and it did not disappoint. I was amazed by the scale of it and the likeness to the four presidents (George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln). The Americans have a real reverence for their past presidents that is both touching and quite foreign to us as Australians.  I was also inspired by the vision and nerve to take on a project like this and succeed.

5221A5AA-4CDE-43B5-97F4-BB850F416670 We also visited the Crazy Horse Memorial, which is still a work in progress and when finished will depict the Sioux leader on his horse pointing to the horizon saying “My lands are where my dead lay buried”.  The memorial is a moving tribute to the Native Americans’ dreams and plans for their land and their country prior to colonisation. Dreams which now will be difficult to realise.

We spent the rest of the day touring around the Black Hills. There’s heaps to see here and we really only just scraped the surface. Lots of Americans holiday in this area, so there are lots of activities for families. We had time to go zip lining which was too terrifying for some, but lots of fun for others!

8C23D5ED-9EF6-4AF1-AABC-CF3907E6AC3DAs we were driving through the Black Hills a very loud flash flood warning sounded on all of our devices simultaneously and was repeated at five minute intervals. It was so loud it sounded like it was coming from a loudspeaker! This was very alarming as we had no idea how we should react to the warning. Should we stop the car or keep driving and where would we go? Not knowing what else to do we kept driving, except when the hail became so heavy we had to pull over!

CF7A60F1-DFA0-4918-B03A-10D3EC95392EThe hail was so heavy and fell so fast that it looked like snow lying around everywhere. We were very glad we didn’t wash away in our car and managed to get back to our base in Rapid City safely!

Rapid City is a fun place to hang out, with a bit of a cafe culture (something we didn’t encounter much of in our travels) and a great place to walk around and do some shopping. It also has lifelike statues of most of the American presidents dotted throughout the city, which was fun for the kids.  Although not really alike, it was the city most similar to our home town, meaning we felt really comfortable here.

I’m taking a break for the next few weeks for school holidays, but will be back to finish off this epic road trip soon! Have a very happy Easter x

Travel

Badlands and Bad Motels

243CD3B8-4226-4C40-A23E-DB68508FAFA4After leaving Kansas City we headed northwest en route to Mount Rushmore. When my husband and I compiled our “must see” lists before deciding on our itinerary for the trip, Mount Rushmore came out on top.

We made an overnight stop on our way to Rapid City, South Dakota (our base for visiting Mt Rushmore). It was here that we encountered our only negative accomodation experience of the trip (which was all prebooked, due to there being six of us travelling in peak season). Suffice to say, I stayed awake a lot of the night trying not to touch the doona cover when I rolled over or to think about the grime encrusted, once waterlogged carpet, all the hair in the bathroom and the chicken nuggets mashed into the air conditioner!

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The Corn Palace in Mitchell

There’s a few unusual attractions out in the middle of America which puzzled me when reading up on the area before leaving for the trip. Really, what is a corn palace and what on earth could be something called Wall Drug?

Turns out the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota is really fascinating. 300,000 ears of corn are used each year to create the murals on the outside of the building pictured above. It all began in the late nineteenth century when several cities on the Great Plains constructed crop or grain palaces to promote themselves and their products. The original corn palace in Mitchell was built in 1892 and the one you see today was rebuilt in 1921. It’s currently used as a multi purpose space hosting exhibits, proms, stage shows and basketball games.

Just as we were leaving Mitchell for Rapid City, I looked down and discovered my engagement ring wasn’t on my finger! We immediately turned the car around and I started praying I would find it. I certainly didn’t want to travel halfway around the world, only to leave a very significant item of my personal history in the Corn Palace in Mitchell! God gave me a real peace I would find it. I felt led back to the bathroom where I upended the unemptied paper towel bin to find my ring at the bottom. Half a million people visit here each year and it was well over an hour since I had been in the bathroom. God is so good!

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My engagement ring safely united with the others, back on the road!

The next place of interest along our route was the Badlands National Park. We didn’t have enough time to stop here, so just took the detour off the highway on the Badlands Loop Road. It’s a really interesting, alien looking landscape which could be the set of a Western movie. We were hoping to see some of the bison that roam the park, but they proved elusive on the day we were visiting.

The very cute and humorous prairie dogs were a big hit with the kids. They can be seen in abundance and there are even places where you can stop and feed them peanuts.

EF58530B-387E-46D6-8CD5-499E58319299Our last stop for the day was Wall Drug. When I first heard the name, I was really puzzled.  What was this place – somewhere you could see drugs stashed in a wall, as some kind of peculiar and offbeat tourist attraction? It turns out that Wall is the name of the town and Drug is short for drug store (what we would call a chemist in Australia). Who would have known? Anyway, Wall Drug came well recommended by the guide books and did not disappoint. It was actually one of my husband’s favourite places on the whole trip. It’s a bizarre collection of outlandish and somewhat tacky, larger than life entertainment as well as a large shopping mall with a western theme. Somehow, it all works to create an enjoyable and fascinating experience. It’s also a good place to buy cowboy boots and other souvenirs.

The story behind Wall Drug is really interesting. It was established in 1931 by a young couple who struggled to get enough business, until they thought of offering free iced water to travellers on their way to the newly opened Mount Rushmore monument. Their business took off from there and is still in the same family today. You can still get free iced water and the coffee is only 5 cents. Billboards advertising Wall Drug have become a bit of an attraction in themselves, as they stretch for at least 1,000 kilometres along the highway leading up to Wall.  They can even be found throughout the world, announcing the miles to Wall Drug from famous locations.

Have you come across any unusual tourist attractions in your travels?

Travel

Pandas and Prairie Houses . . .

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Rend Collective in concert in Kansas City

During some of our long days driving around America, my husband Murray and I got to thinking of some of the bands we liked who could be playing in the States while we were there.  So, after googling a couple of possibilities, we looked up Rend Collective (my favourite band) and discovered they were playing at the right place on the right day! It just took a few little tweaks to our itinerary,(happily, booking.com reservations can be cancelled with a refund with 24 hours notice) and an early start out of Memphis to be in Kansas City that night for the concert. So exciting!!

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Laura and Almanzo’s farmhouse

Rocky Ridge Farm in Mansfield, Missouri (the home of Laura Ingalls Wilder from 1896 until her death in 1957), was already on the itinerary, as the Little House Series were amongst my most favourite books growing up. It was convenient for a lunch stop on our journey as it is located about midway between Memphis and Kansas City. There is a museum here and you can tour the two houses on the farm. It is a very special place to visit as the farmhouse was built a little at a time by Laura and her husband Almanzo and it was here that she wrote her famous books, beginning with Little House in the Big Woods. The next book, Little House on the Prairie is probably the best known as there was a television series made of the same name. In the farmhouse and the museum you can see Pa’s fiddle, Laura’s writing desk, original letters, Laura and Mary’s slates, Nellie’s stationary calling card, their quilts and many more personal items. It was a dream come true for me to visit here! Reading the books in my own farmhouse growing up, I never imagined I would have the privilege to do this. It was quite an emotional experience for me to be here and experience it all.

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The Rock House built for the Wilders by their daughter

After a simple, but lovely picnic lunch from Laura’s Lunch Pail we hit the road again. We arrived in Kansas City just in time for the concert. Rend Collective were amazing to watch – so much stage energy! What a blessed day – living out my childhood dreams and seeing my favourite band in concert. The locals were surprised to see Aussies floating around – they said they don’t see too many tourists in Kansas City!

1BA30A1D-9230-4BE5-946D-11FB70A275C1Since arriving back home my kids have been inspired to read Laura Ingalls Wilder’s books. Did you grow up reading the Little House books? Who was your favourite character?

Travel

Marvellous Memphis

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Famous Beale Street

I’m back to finish off blogging about the second half of the  Great James-Wallace American Road Trip of 2018! The next stop after New Orleans was Memphis – from one gritty city to another.  When I was researching the trip, I was intrigued to read the Lonely Planet’s description: “Memphis has a certain baroque, ruined quality that’s both sad and beguiling.” Memphis was also one of the few places on our itinerary where the Airbnb reviews emphasised the importance of being in the “right” neighbourhood for safety reasons. It was thus with both excitement and trepidation that we embarked on our visit here.

We only had one day in Memphis, so to maximise our time we left our car parked at our Airbnb and ubered around the city for the day. This was a great option as it left us free to enjoy the sights without worrying about traffic, directions and where to park the car. We stayed in a fabulous Airbnb in Memphis (pictured below), which really gave us a feel of what it is like to be a resident of Memphis. The houses have no dividing fences and people were all out and about on the streets, so the neighbourhood had a lot of life to it.

We started our day with a visit to the National Civil Rights Museum, which is across the street from the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King Jr was assassinated on April 4 1968. This was easily the most moving experience from our American trip. Both my husband and I spent most of our time in the museum fighting back tears. The exterior of the Lorraine Motel and the room King was staying in at the time he was shot are much the same as they were at the time of his assasination. The statue of Rosa Parks on the bus and a preserved copy of a tourist guide for African Americans showing them where they were free to stay, eat and shop under the segregation rules were also very moving.  It was great for us to be able to explain this history to our kids and for them to gain an understanding of racial discrimination.

After our time in the museum we headed to Central BBQ, a Memphis institution for lunch. You have to queue for a table here, but it was well worth the wait, as the food was amazing. The pulled pork, sauces and iced tea were particularly memorable. The boys loved the ribs!

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After lunch it was onwards to Graceland. I wouldn’t call myself a die hard Elvis fan, nevertheless it was interesting to take the tour and to understand a bit more of what made Elvis tick. It was also a good opportunity to explain another part of history to the kids. Elvis’ house, although lavishly decorated, was quite humble, particularly in comparison with those of the stars of today. Elvis’ grave is also here.

After leaving Graceland we headed back into town to the Peabody Hotel to see the famous ducks who live in the hotel and swim in the lobby fountain. This is a 1930’s tradition which draws a big crowd! Every day at 11am the ducks descend the elevator to the fountain and make the reverse trip at 5pm that same day accompanied by their duckmaster. It was hard to get a good photo, but you can see some of the ducks to the right of the fountain below and the back of the red coated duckmaster. It was like something out of a fairy tale!

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What a day! It was very intense, but very enjoyable. Memphis is certainly a very real city with soul. We finished off with a stroll along Beale Street and some ice cream sodas in a beautifully old fashioned store. After that it was back to our Airbnb for dinner and an early night ahead of an early start into Laura Ingalls Wilder territory!

Travel

NOLA

48F4DAD2-95B3-45C6-B4DE-FA12A4FDC29FBoy this place was amazing! NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana) really got under our skin and we could have parked up and stayed a while. We travelled here from Miami via the swamps and sink holes of Tallahassee (a place which has a pace the Lonely Planet calls “slower than syrup”). We were a little confused and thought this was the place Bobbie Gentry sang about in the famous “Ode to Billie Joe”, but that was actually the Tallahatchie Bridge which we crossed later in our trip through Mississippi.

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The sink holes of Tallahassee

We arrived into New Orleans in the late afternoon and went straight off to explore the streets of the French Quarter where we were staying. Although you have to use a parking garage and the streets are very narrow, it’s easier to navigate than you might think in a car, as all the streets are one way. The French Quarter is where it’s all happening! It’s great to be in the heart of it all and to listen to the amazing music wafting from every street corner. We stayed in a great little apartment hotel called the Quarter House (a historic building once owned by a free woman of colour). We loved staying here and it was very affordable – Summer is the off season down this way. I did however, see a mouse in my very elegant room on the second floor -probably escaped to higher ground during the flooding from Hurricane Katrina! It was all part of the raffish charm of a place where decay and opulence cosy up together.

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The charming courtyard pool at the Quarter House

We did lots of walking and gawking – the architecture is amazing and there are interesting people and shops to look at everywhere. (And if you are tired of walking you can read in doorways just like Reuben, pictured below). The food is also amazing – creole and cajun cuisine make for some exciting tasty dishes, which were fun to try. There are cocktails to go (a novel concept for us Aussies) and of course we had to try the Bourbon Milk Punch (it’s delicious), one of New Orlean’s signature drinks. It’s also great to visit Cafe du Monde which has been serving up the very tasty and decadent beignets (sugar coated fritters) since 1862 – it’s fun to visit this cafe and partake in a bit of this history. NOLA has quite a debaucherous reputation (and I’m sure it lives up to it, if you’re looking), but we didn’t encounter anything disturbing.

The next day we headed out of town, along the mighty Mississippi (whose moods dominate this place), to visit one of the plantations. There are a lot of them clustered along the River Road and it was hard to choose just one to visit (that’s all we had time for), but in the end we settled on Oak Alley. We were not disappointed – the grounds are amazing and the history of slavery was sensitively and well presented. There’s a cafe here that sells delicious made from scratch Southern food and you can wander through the exhibits on the grounds with a mint julep in hand. A number of well known movies have been filmed here.

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Oak Alley

After we got back into town we headed to the garden district to stroll around the streets on a walking tour recommended in the Lonely Planet. There are some amazing houses and some fun shops to poke around in – we even bought some hats made from Australian wool! The garden district is also home to the famous Lafayette Cemetery No 1 where people were entombed above ground due to NOLA being below sea level. It was closed when we arrived, but we were still able to peer through the gates.

Back home that evening we couldn’t resist exploring some more of the French Quarter. I loved the corn motif on the Cornstalk Hotel pictured below (maybe I’ll look into staying here if I ever visit again). The corn motif was also used on a fence in the garden district. NOLA is really something quite unique and is like a little slice of Europe ( although of course with its own very distinct characteristics) in America.

Before we could leave town and follow the Mississippi north to Memphis, we were conned by our war history loving son into one last stop at the National WWII Museum in downtown New Orleans. It was well worth a visit, as the displays are amazing.

My roadtrip recount is about to head north up through the Mississippi Delta and I’m going to take a break from regular posting until school holidays end in early February. It’s time to have some down time with the kids (school ends tomorrow – eek)! I’ll pop back in before then to share some inspiration for the festive season – my favourite time of the year!

 

Travel

The Many Vices of Miami

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We didn’t spend very long in Miami (just two nights), so it was difficult to fully appreciate all the vices! It was the most culturally different place we visited on our American road trip. We were really surprised to discover that Spanish is more widely spoken here than English (we were greeted in Spanish upon entering most shops).

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The Lonely Planet sums up Miami (and particularly Lincoln Road Mall, pictured above), as about seeing and being seen. They say there are times when the Mall feels less like a road and more like a runway! There were certainly some great shops here and some wonderful multicultural restaurants which made a nice break from typical American fare.

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As well as the shopping and dining, Miami is of course very well known for its Art Deco buildings. I was excited to see these – the Art Deco historic district at South Beach is justifiably famous, with 800 of the buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Buildings. There are a lot of restaurants and hotels here where you can dine al fresco and people-watch. There is a constant stream of hip people and cars parading past (although he had to be pointed out to us by fellow diners, we even saw Alex Rodriguez – Jennifer Lopez’s boyfriend drive past in a very flash car).

As well as exploring Miami Beach we made a half day trip out of town to experience the Everglades. We got to take a ride on an airboat, which although super noisy was a novel way to explore what the Native Americans call the “River of Grass”. It was also a good chance to spot some alligators from a distance (of course)!

We only just scraped the surface of what Miami has to offer and will have to return another day to really understand what makes the place tick. For now, though, it was back on the road again, next stop New Orleans!

Travel

Mountain Lodgings

7142D248-4D6A-424A-9008-516AD00979BDOur next stop was the beautiful Mast Farm Inn in Valle Crucis, North Carolina. We chose to visit here as it had a great write up in the Lonely Planet Guide and was tucked away in the mountains, off the beaten track. We met some Americans holidaying here, and they were quite amazed that we had managed to travel halfway across the world and to stumble on such a cosy bolthole!

The Mast Farm (on which the inn is situated), dates from the late 1700’s when Joseph Mast travelled to the mountains and traded his rifle, dog and a pair of leggings for 1000 acres of fertile Watauga River Valley land. The first house was built on the land around 1810 and is the oldest inhabitable log cabin in North Carolina. Today you can stay in the inn, some new chalets or in some of the beautifully restored farm buildings. A delicious two course home cooked farm to table breakfast is served each morning in the inn’s dining room and local provisions and homemade cakes are served in the afternoon. The help yourself cookie jar is always full of freshly made cookies!

There were some amazing thunderstorms during the evenings while we were staying here and we felt so cozy tucked up in the inn while the storms raged outside!

We spent our time here doing some hiking in the mountains on the Blue Ridge Parkway, which stretches 469 miles from Shenandoah National Park in Virginia to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina.

564AC640-54E8-4914-804C-B9D9F727FBF8The countryside is spectacular and surprisingly for us West Aussies, very hot and humid in the forest. Back home I spoke to a Canadian who said she really misses the humidity when hiking in Australia – not me, give me dry heat anyday! Flowers which can often be found in our gardens (rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias), grow wild, making for a particularly beautiful hike when they are blooming.

We also visited the swinging bridge and the animal habitat at Grandfather Mountain, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve. The black bear was nowhere to be seen, much to our dismay. However, if we had know what was to come in our trip, we wouldn’t have been worried!

Before we headed onto Gatlinburg the next day, we visited the Mast General Store just near the Mast Farm Inn. The store opened in 1883 and still sells much of the same products as it did back then. It’s a great place to spend an hour or two sifting through the cornucopia of merchandise and its a good location to buy some souvenirs. In the winter the local old timers gather around the potbelly inside to trade yarns of yesteryear. You can feel the history oozing out of the walls! We also made a stop at the Foggy Mountain Gem Mine to pan for semiprecious stones. This was a blast for adults and kids alike. Once we had panned out the semiprecious stones we were given a very informative talk about them. You get to keep what you find, and also have the chance to have them polished and shipped home to be made into jewellery at a later date.

After lunch at a local diner we drove onto our next adventure involving BEARS!!!